Peony Winter Grafting

Peony is the traditional name of our country and is deeply loved by people. The traditional peony grafting method requires strong temporality. The middle part of the Yellow River valley is suitable from early September to early October. If the grafting time is missed, the survival rate will decrease with the delay of time. In order to prolong the reproduction time and increase the propagation coefficient, since 2000, the author boldly explored the grafting of peony in winter greenhouses, and after unremitting efforts, he achieved satisfactory results. Peony winter grafting method is introduced as follows:
Root stocks and scion selection Rootstocks use 2-3 cm in diameter, thick, pest-free peony root or peony root, in particular, physical peony root as well, drying 2 to 3 days, making it fully soft standby. Store rootstock properly before grafting to prevent frostbite. The scions were selected from 7 to 10 cm in length, which grow vigorously and are full of the top branches of the year, or the branches that were developed from the "soil buds" of that year.
Grafting time and environment
From November to the end of January next year can be carried out. The entire grafting process is carried out in a greenhouse. The temperature inside the shed is controlled between 15°C and 25°C.
Grafting method uses a half-faced splicing method: that is, cutting the sides of the lower part of the scion with a knife to form a thick triangular wedge on one side, and cutting the length of 2.5 cm to 3 cm; then, cut the top of the rootstock into a smooth plane and cross it. On one side of the face, a 2.5 cm to 3 cm incision is made from top to bottom and the scion is inserted from one side to align the two. When inserting the scions, take care not to insert all the cut noodles. To expose 2 mm to 3 mm of noodles outside the rootstock, commonly known as “dark white”, it is more conducive to the formation and healing of meristems. After grafting, it can be fastened with hemp rope or hemp.
The grafted seedlings are planted on a high-drained, well-drained site and dug 50 cm to 60 cm deep. The length depends on the number of seedlings. The ditch begins with 3 cm thick wet sand, and then grafts the seedlings. 50 bunches of bundles were stacked neatly in the pits. When stacked 15 centimeters from the ground, the upper part is filled with wet sand, slightly higher than the ground, and straw is inserted to facilitate ventilation. If grafting is later, it can be directly planted in a greenhouse. The method is basically the same as above. When scions and rootstocks were to heal and 80% of the roots exposed white spots (ie, adventitious roots), they were timely planted in Daejeon. Be careful not to let the young root grow too long to avoid damage when planting. The humidity of the sand used in the prosthesis should be 60%, that is, it can be held by hand to form a mass, loosen and scattered, but not dripping.
The planting of grafted seedlings is generally planted in trenches with a width of 20 cm, a depth of 30 cm and a spacing of 15 cm and 35 cm. The upper end of grafted seedlings was slightly higher than the ground, covered with fine soil, and made up of earth ridges 10 cm to 15 cm wide, and then covered with a plastic film to insulate them. From February to March, when some of the seedlings sprout, they must be ventilated so as not to burn the seedlings. As the temperature rises, when the seedlings sprout and unearth, the mulch around the seedlings will be cut in time and compacted with soil. After that, it enters the growth period of seedlings, removes buds and sprouts from peony root anvils, timely watering and rowing, cultivating and weeding, and preventing pests and leaf spot diseases.

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